How to lay down laminate flooring
To lay down laminate flooring, prepare your subfloor, lay an underlayment, and then click the planks together, leaving expansion gaps around the perimeter. Start against a straight wall and use a tapping block and mallet for tight joints.
Laying down laminate flooring yourself is achievable with careful planning and execution. The process involves preparing the subfloor, installing an underlayment, and then clicking the planks together according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Proper technique ensures a durable and attractive floor that can last for years.
Before you begin, gather your tools and materials. You’ll need laminate planks, underlayment, a tapping block, a pull bar, a rubber mallet, a measuring tape, a pencil, a utility knife, safety glasses, and a saw (a jigsaw or miter saw works well). Ensure you have enough planks for the room, plus about 10% extra for cuts and mistakes.
Acclimatize the laminate planks to the room’s temperature and humidity for at least 48 hours before installation. This prevents expansion or contraction issues after the floor is laid. The room should be clean, dry, and level. Remove all baseboards and door trim, but leave them nearby for reinstallation.
Prepare the subfloor for laminate flooring
A clean, dry, and level subfloor is crucial for a successful laminate installation. Sweep or vacuum the subfloor thoroughly to remove all dust, debris, and old adhesive. Check for any high spots or low spots. High spots can be sanded down, while low spots may need to be filled with a leveling compound. The subfloor should be flat within 3/16 inch over a 10-foot span, according to the International Residential Code (IRC) R401.1.
If you’re installing over concrete, ensure it’s completely dry. Moisture can cause laminate to swell. A vapor barrier is often required, especially for basement installations or on ground-level concrete slabs. Check the laminate manufacturer’s specifications for their specific moisture barrier requirements.
For existing hard-surface subfloors like vinyl or tile, ensure they are securely fastened and level. Loose tiles or vinyl can lead to squeaks and unevenness in the laminate. In some cases, a layer of 1/4-inch plywood might be necessary to create a stable, level surface.
Install the laminate underlayment
The underlayment provides a cushioning layer, helps to smooth out minor subfloor imperfections, and acts as a moisture barrier. It’s typically rolled out over the prepared subfloor, with seams butted together and taped with a compatible tape. Do not overlap the underlayment seams, as this can create an uneven surface.
Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for the type of underlayment. Some laminates come with pre-attached underlayment, eliminating this step. For others, you’ll need a separate foam or felt underlayment. If you have radiant heating in the subfloor, ensure the underlayment is compatible with it.
Begin laying the laminate planks
Start in a corner of the room, typically the one furthest from the door, and lay the first plank with the tongue side facing the wall. Leave an expansion gap of about 1/4 to 3/8 inch (6-10 mm) between the plank and the wall. This gap allows the laminate to expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity, preventing buckling.
You can use spacers or scrap pieces of laminate to maintain this gap consistently. The first row of planks needs to be straight to ensure the rest of the floor installs correctly. Some systems require cutting off the tongue on the wall-facing side of the planks in the first row.
Connect the laminate planks
Laminate flooring typically uses a click-lock system. To connect planks, angle the tongue of the new plank into the groove of the previously laid plank and lower it to create a tight seam. For some systems, you’ll need to use a tapping block and a rubber mallet to gently tap the planks together, ensuring a snug fit without damaging the edges.
Work your way across the room, row by row. Stagger the end joints of the planks by at least 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm) to create a stronger, more visually appealing floor. This is often referred to as a ‘brick pattern’ or ‘staggered layout’. Use a pull bar to secure the last plank in each row, as there might not be enough space to use the tapping block.
Cut laminate flooring for walls and obstacles
You’ll need to cut planks to fit the length of rows and around obstacles like doorways, vents, or cabinets. Measure the required length and make precise cuts with your saw. Remember to account for the expansion gap when measuring for the last plank in each row.
For cuts around door jambs or irregular shapes, a jigsaw is useful. You can often undercut door jambs slightly so the laminate can slide underneath, creating a cleaner finish. Always wear safety glasses when operating a saw.
Install the final row of laminate flooring
The last row of planks may need to be cut lengthwise to fit the remaining space. Measure the distance between the last installed row and the wall, remembering to subtract the expansion gap. Cut the planks to this width.
To install the final row, you might need to use the pull bar to draw the planks tightly against the wall. Ensure the expansion gap is maintained along this final wall as well. If you have a doorway in the final row, you’ll need to cut the planks to fit around the frame, again maintaining the expansion gap.
Finish the laminate flooring installation
Once all planks are laid, reinstall your baseboards and trim. The baseboards should cover the expansion gap along the walls, creating a finished look. Do not nail the baseboards directly into the laminate; nail them into the wall studs or the subfloor to avoid restricting the laminate’s movement.
Inspect the floor for any gaps or unevenness. Gently tap any tight seams with the mallet and tapping block. Clean the floor with a recommended laminate floor cleaner, avoiding excessive moisture.
Common Mistakes When Laying Laminate Flooring
| Step/Tool | Typical Mistake | How to Avoid It |
|---|---|---|
| Subfloor Preparation | Installing on an uneven or dirty subfloor. | Ensure the subfloor is level (within 3/16″ per 10ft), clean, and dry. Use a leveling compound for low spots and sand down high spots. |
| Underlayment | Overlapping underlayment seams. | Butt the seams of the underlayment together and tape them, do not overlap. Ensure it’s the correct type for your laminate and subfloor. |
| Expansion Gaps | Forgetting or not maintaining expansion gaps around the perimeter. | Use spacers (1/4″ to 3/8″) along all walls, doorways, and permanent fixtures to allow for natural expansion and contraction. |
| Plank Connection | Forcing planks together or damaging edges. | Use a tapping block and rubber mallet gently. Ensure the locking mechanism is clean and properly aligned before connecting. |
| Staggering Joints | Lining up end joints in consecutive rows. | Stagger the end joints by at least 6-8 inches to create a stronger, more aesthetically pleasing floor pattern. |
FAQ
How to lay down laminate flooring on concrete
When laying laminate flooring on concrete, a vapor barrier is essential to prevent moisture migration. Ensure the concrete is completely dry and level. Install a suitable underlayment over the vapor barrier, then proceed with clicking the laminate planks together, maintaining expansion gaps around the perimeter.
How to lay down wood laminate flooring
Wood laminate flooring is installed using the same click-lock system as other laminate types. Acclimatize the planks, prepare a level subfloor, and lay an underlayment. Start in a corner, connect planks by angling and clicking them together, stagger the end joints, and always leave expansion gaps around the room’s edges.
What tools are needed to lay laminate flooring?
You will need a measuring tape, pencil, utility knife, safety glasses, a saw (jigsaw or miter saw), underlayment, tapping block, pull bar, and a rubber mallet. Ensure you have enough laminate planks, plus 10% extra for cuts.
How do I prepare the subfloor for laminate?
The subfloor must be clean, dry, and level. Sweep or vacuum all debris. High spots can be sanded, and low spots filled with leveling compound. Ensure it’s flat within 3/16 inch over a 10-foot span. A vapor barrier is needed for concrete subfloors.
