How to lay laminate flooring on wooden floors
You can lay laminate flooring directly over existing wooden floors, provided the wood is level, dry, and structurally sound. Proper subfloor preparation, including cleaning and potential leveling, is crucial. Install a vapor barrier and underlayment suitable for laminate.
Laying laminate flooring over an existing wooden floor is a common and achievable DIY project. The key is proper preparation of the existing wood subfloor. Your existing wood floor can serve as a perfectly good subfloor for laminate, saving you the effort and cost of removal. However, not all wood floors are suitable candidates.
The existing wooden floor must be structurally sound. Check for any loose boards, squeaks, or signs of rot. Loose boards need to be secured with screws. Any areas with rot must be repaired or replaced. The surface must also be clean and free of debris, old adhesives, wax, or paint. Vacuum thoroughly and sweep the floor.
Levelness is critical for laminate installation. Most laminate manufacturers recommend the subfloor to be within 1/8 inch of flatness over a 6-foot span (3.18 mm over 1.83 meters). If your wood floor has significant dips or humps, you’ll need to address them. For minor unevenness, a self-leveling compound designed for wood subfloors can be used. For more substantial issues, you might need to sand down high spots or add a thin layer of plywood or hardboard to create a smooth surface.
Moisture is the enemy of laminate flooring. Ensure the wooden subfloor is dry. If you are installing on a concrete slab in a basement, a vapor barrier is mandatory. Even over a wooden subfloor in a first-floor or upper-level room, a vapor barrier is often recommended, especially in humid climates or over unconditioned spaces like crawl spaces. Check the laminate manufacturer’s warranty requirements for vapor barriers and underlayment.
Prepare the existing wooden floor
Begin by inspecting the entire wooden floor. Walk across it, listening and feeling for any loose boards or squeaks. Use a drill/driver to secure any loose boards with 1 1/4-inch drywall screws. Drive the screws slightly below the surface of the wood so they don’t interfere with the laminate installation or protrude.
Next, clean the floor meticulously. Remove all dust, dirt, and debris. A shop vacuum is excellent for this. Pay attention to the gaps between boards where dirt can accumulate. If there’s any old adhesive residue, wax build-up, or paint drips, these must be removed. You might need a floor scraper or a specific adhesive remover. Ensure the surface is completely dry before proceeding.
Check for levelness using a long, straight edge or a 6-foot level. Place it across the floor in various directions. Mark any areas that deviate from the 1/8-inch over 6 feet tolerance. For high spots, you can carefully sand them down. For low spots, use a floor leveling compound. Mix and apply it according to the manufacturer’s instructions, ensuring it dries completely and creates a smooth transition. If you need to add a new layer of subflooring material, use 1/4-inch or 1/2-inch plywood or a cement board (for potentially damp areas) and secure it firmly to the existing wood floor with screws every 6-8 inches.
Install underlayment and vapor barrier
Most laminate flooring requires an underlayment. This layer provides cushioning, sound insulation, and helps to smooth out minor subfloor imperfections. It also acts as a moisture barrier in some cases, but check the product specifications. Underlayment comes in rolls or interlocking pads. Roll-out underlayment is easier for larger areas. Unroll it perpendicular to the direction you plan to lay the laminate planks.
If your laminate manufacturer requires a separate vapor barrier, or if you are installing over concrete or in a high-moisture area, lay down a polyethylene sheeting. Overlap the seams by at least 6 inches and tape them securely with appropriate construction tape. Extend the vapor barrier up the walls slightly, about 4-6 inches. This prevents moisture from migrating from the subfloor up into the laminate.
Install the underlayment over the vapor barrier (if used). Again, lay it perpendicular to your plank direction. Trim excess material with a utility knife. Many underlayments have a self-adhesive strip to connect seams. If not, use tape designed for underlayment. Ensure there are no gaps or overlaps in the underlayment, as these can telegraph through the finished floor.
Laying the laminate planks
Start in a corner of the room, usually the left corner furthest from the door. Lay your first plank with the tongue side facing the wall. You’ll need to remove the tongue on the wall-facing side of the first row of planks using a handsaw or a circular saw. Leave an expansion gap of about 1/4 to 1/2 inch (6.4 to 12.7 mm) between the planks and all walls, baseboards, and other vertical surfaces. This gap allows the laminate to expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity.
Use spacers to maintain this gap as you work along the first row. Connect the short ends of the planks by angling the tongue into the groove and pressing down. Once the first row is complete, you may need to use a tapping block and a rubber mallet to gently tap the planks together to ensure a tight fit. Be careful not to damage the edges.
For the second row, start with a plank that is at least 6 inches shorter than the first plank of the previous row. This staggering of seams is crucial for the structural integrity and appearance of the floor. You can often cut the first plank of the second row from the offcut of the last plank of the first row. Angle the long edge tongue of the new plank into the groove of the previous row and lower it into place. Then, use the tapping block on the short end to engage the tongue and groove connection.
Continue laying rows, staggering the end joints by at least 6 inches. Alternate between using the tapping block on the long side and the short side as needed to ensure tight, flush joints. Always maintain the expansion gap around the perimeter. When you reach the last row, you may need to cut the planks lengthwise. Measure the distance between the last laid row and the wall, remembering to account for the expansion gap. Cut the planks to the required width. You might need to use a pull bar to carefully pry the last row into place, tapping gently to engage the locking mechanism.
Finishing touches and maintenance
Once all the planks are laid, remove all spacers. Reinstall baseboards and trim. The baseboards should cover the expansion gap. If you removed quarter-round molding, you can reattach it to the baseboard, not directly to the floor, to allow for movement.
Install transition strips (reducers) in doorways to connect to other flooring types or at thresholds. These ensure a smooth transition and accommodate the necessary expansion gaps.
Clean the new laminate floor with a damp mop (not wet) and a pH-neutral cleaner specifically designed for laminate. Avoid abrasive cleaners or excessive water, as these can damage the finish and the core material.
Regular sweeping or vacuuming with a hard floor attachment will keep the surface clean. Protect the floor from direct sunlight where possible, as prolonged exposure can cause fading. Use furniture pads under the legs of chairs and tables to prevent scratches.
Common Mistakes When Laying Laminate Over Wood Floors
| Step or Tool | Typical Mistake | Consequence |
|---|---|---|
| Subfloor Inspection | Skipping the levelness check or ignoring loose boards. | Cupping, gapping planks, squeaks, and premature wear. |
| Vapor Barrier | Not using a vapor barrier in damp areas or over concrete. | Moisture damage, swelling, buckling, and mold growth. |
| Expansion Gaps | Laying planks too close to walls or obstructions. | Buckling and lifting of the floor as it expands. |
| Underlayment | Using the wrong type or skipping it entirely. | Poor sound insulation, increased wear, and potential moisture issues. |
| Acclimation | Installing laminate immediately after bringing it into the room. | The planks may shrink or expand significantly after installation, causing gaps or buckling. |
FAQ
Can I install laminate flooring directly over vinyl flooring that is already on top of my wood floor?
Generally, you can install laminate over existing vinyl flooring if the vinyl is securely adhered, flat, and in good condition. Ensure the vinyl surface is clean and dry. However, always check the laminate manufacturer’s installation guidelines, as some may specifically prohibit installation over vinyl.
Do I need to remove the existing baseboards before laying laminate?
You do not need to remove the baseboards. In fact, it’s often better to leave them in place. You will need to leave an expansion gap around the perimeter of the room, and the baseboards will cover this gap. If you are installing new baseboards or quarter-round, you will need to remove the old ones first.
How do I cut laminate flooring around doorways or irregular shapes?
For doorways and irregular shapes, you’ll typically need to undercut the door casing. This involves using a handsaw or oscillating multi-tool to cut the bottom of the casing so the laminate plank can slide underneath. This creates a cleaner, more professional look than simply cutting to fit around it. For complex shapes, a jigsaw is useful.