How to get up laminate flooring
To get up laminate flooring, first remove baseboards, then use a pry bar and hammer to gently lift and separate planks. Work from an edge, carefully disengaging the locking mechanisms. Continue plank by plank until the floor is removed.
Removing laminate flooring is a manageable DIY project if you have the right approach. Unlike solid hardwood, laminate is typically a floating floor, meaning it’s not glued or nailed down. This makes removal generally easier. The key is to work methodically and avoid damaging the subfloor or surrounding walls.
Before you begin, gather your tools. You’ll need a pry bar (a flat bar or crowbar works), a hammer, a utility knife, a putty knife, safety glasses, work gloves, and possibly a small reciprocating saw or a multi-tool if planks are stubborn or if you need to cut them to remove them.
Start by removing the baseboards. They are usually nailed to the wall, not the laminate. Carefully pry them away from the wall using your pry bar. If they are painted along the top edge, you may need to score the paint line with a utility knife first to prevent wall damage. Keep the baseboards organized if you plan to reuse them.
Start with an edge
Once the baseboards are off, you’ll see the edge of the laminate flooring. It’s designed to expand and contract, so there’s usually a small gap between the flooring and the wall, covered by the baseboard. Find a starting point, typically along an exterior wall or in a doorway.
Insert the pry bar under the first plank, near the wall. You want to lift it just enough to disengage the locking mechanism. Be gentle; you’re not trying to force it up violently. A gentle upward pressure is usually sufficient.
If the planks are difficult to lift, you might need to use a hammer to tap the pry bar. However, be extremely cautious. Too much force can damage the plank or the subfloor. Aim to lever the plank upwards. Once the first plank is slightly lifted, you can often get your fingers or the pry bar underneath to work along its length.
Disengage the locking mechanism
Laminate planks typically interlock via a tongue-and-groove system. As you pry up the first plank, you’re breaking this connection. For most click-lock systems, you’ll lift the plank, and then it will often slide out of the adjacent plank.
If you encounter a plank that’s particularly stubborn, examine how it’s locked. Some systems require a slight angle or a specific movement to disengage. You might need to work your pry bar along the length of the plank to free it from its neighbors.
For very tight installations or older laminate, you might need to carefully cut along the seam between planks with a utility knife. This can help break the bond, but it’s a last resort as it can create more debris and potentially damage the adjacent planks if not done precisely.
Work plank by plank
Once the first plank is removed, continue to the next. You can usually lift subsequent planks by hand or with the pry bar, again focusing on disengaging the locking mechanism. Work your way across the room, removing each plank individually.
Keep the removed planks organized. If they are in good condition, you might consider saving them for repairs or for another project. Stack them neatly as you go.
Be mindful of the subfloor as you work. Ensure your tools aren’t digging into it. If you’re removing laminate that was installed over hardwood, take extra care not to scratch the hardwood underneath. If it was installed over concrete, check for any moisture issues that might have contributed to the laminate’s condition.
Dealing with stubborn planks
Sometimes, laminate planks can be difficult to disengage due to swelling from moisture or a particularly tight fit. If a plank won’t budge, you might need to use a reciprocating saw or a multi-tool. Cut the plank lengthwise, along the seam, to break it into smaller, manageable pieces. Always wear safety glasses when operating power tools.
Another technique for stubborn planks is to use a putty knife. Slide it between planks to help break the seal or gently pry them apart. This is less likely to damage the planks than a large pry bar.
If you’re removing laminate that has been glued down (less common for standard laminate), the process will be significantly more difficult. You may need to use a scraper or even a floor scraper tool, and it might require more force and potentially cutting the planks into small pieces.
Final cleanup
Once all the laminate flooring is removed, sweep or vacuum the subfloor thoroughly. Inspect the subfloor for any damage, loose nails, or debris. Make any necessary repairs before installing new flooring.
If you had to cut planks, be sure to clean up all small pieces and dust. Proper subfloor preparation is crucial for the success of your next flooring project.
Dispose of the old laminate flooring according to your local waste disposal guidelines. Some materials may require special disposal methods.
Common Mistakes When Removing Laminate Flooring
| Step or Tool | Typical Mistake | How to Avoid It |
|---|---|---|
| Pry Bar | Forcing the plank too hard | Use gentle leverage. If it resists, check the locking mechanism or try a different spot. |
| Hammer | Hitting the laminate directly | Use the hammer to tap the pry bar, not the flooring. Protect the surface with a piece of scrap wood if needed. |
| Utility Knife | Cutting too deep or inaccurately | Score lightly. Only cut if necessary to disengage a stubborn lock, and aim for the seam. |
| Working without a plan | Damaging the subfloor or walls | Remove baseboards first. Work systematically plank by plank, and be aware of your surroundings. |
| Power Saw (if used) | Cutting through the subfloor | Use the correct blade depth. Always wear safety glasses and be aware of what’s beneath the laminate. |
FAQ
Do I need to remove the entire laminate floor, or can I just remove a few planks?
You can remove individual planks if they are damaged and you need to replace them, provided the floor is still in good condition. However, if you are replacing the entire floor or dealing with widespread damage, it’s best to remove all planks to ensure a consistent and properly installed new floor.
Can I install new flooring directly over the old laminate?
Generally, it’s not recommended to install new flooring directly over laminate. While some thin, flexible flooring like certain vinyl might be an exception, most manufacturers advise against it. Removing the old laminate ensures a stable, flat, and properly prepped subfloor for optimal performance of the new flooring.
What kind of subfloor will I find under laminate flooring?
Underneath laminate, you’ll commonly find plywood, OSB (Oriented Strand Board), or concrete. The type of subfloor will influence how you proceed with repairs or the installation of new flooring. Always inspect the subfloor for damage, flatness, and moisture issues after removing the laminate.
How much time does it take to remove laminate flooring?
The time it takes varies greatly depending on the room size, the type of laminate, and how easily the planks come apart. A small room might take a couple of hours, while a larger or more challenging installation could take half a day or more. Patience is key.
