Wallpaper hanging how to
Hanging wallpaper yourself requires meticulous wall preparation, including cleaning, smoothing, and priming. Measure and cut panels carefully, accounting for pattern repeats. Apply adhesive evenly, hang the first strip plumb, and smooth out air bubbles as you go. Butt seams tightly and trim excess with a sharp blade for a professional finish.
Hanging wallpaper yourself is a rewarding DIY project that can dramatically update a room’s aesthetic. Success hinges on meticulous preparation and patient application. Before you begin, gather all necessary tools and materials. Ensure you have enough wallpaper for the entire project, accounting for pattern matching and potential mistakes. Measure each wall carefully, adding at least 4 inches to the height for trimming.
Begin by preparing your walls. They must be clean, dry, and smooth. Remove any old wallpaper or paint. Fill cracks and holes with spackle and sand them smooth once dry. If your walls are glossy, lightly sand them to create a surface the adhesive can grip. For new drywall, ensure it’s properly primed. If you’re hanging wallpaper over a dark color, consider using a wallpaper liner to create a neutral base.
Next, prepare your wallpaper. Unroll the first panel and check for any defects. If there’s a pattern, align it with the next strip to ensure a seamless match. Cut the wallpaper to size, adding the extra inches at the top and bottom for trimming. For patterned paper, it’s crucial to cut subsequent panels so the pattern continues correctly. Double-check the pattern repeat on the wallpaper’s packaging.
Applying the adhesive
There are two main types of wallpaper: pre-pasted and unpasted. For pre-pasted wallpaper, you typically dip it in water for a specific amount of time according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This activates the adhesive. For unpasted wallpaper, you’ll need to apply a wallpaper adhesive to the wall or the back of the paper, depending on the type of paper and adhesive recommended by the manufacturer. Use a roller or brush designed for wallpaper paste for even application. Avoid applying too much paste, which can cause the paper to become overly saturated and tear easily.
Hanging the first strip
The first strip is the most critical. Use a level to draw a perfectly vertical plumb line on the wall where you want the edge of your first panel to be. This accounts for any imperfections in your wall or ceiling. Start at a corner or a prominent feature. Align the edge of the wallpaper with your plumb line, leaving the excess at the top to fold over the ceiling or trim. Gently press the top edge of the paper to the wall.
As you unroll the wallpaper down the wall, use a wallpaper smoothing tool or a clean, dry cloth to gently press it onto the wall. Work from the center outwards to push out any air bubbles or wrinkles. Overlap the paper slightly onto the ceiling or trim. Don’t stretch the paper, as this can cause seams to open up later. Ensure the paper is positioned correctly before it adheres too firmly.
Hanging subsequent strips
Hang subsequent strips, butting the edges together as tightly as possible without overlapping. This is known as a ‘butt joint’. Use your smoothing tool to ensure each strip is flat against the wall, paying close attention to the seams. If you have a pattern, ensure the match is perfect before smoothing the paper down. Overlap is generally not recommended for most modern wallpapers as it can lead to visible seams over time.
Use a sharp utility knife or a razor blade to trim the excess wallpaper at the ceiling and baseboard. A metal straight edge or ruler can help you achieve a clean, straight cut. For areas around windows and doors, carefully cut relief slits to allow the paper to lay flat, then trim excess. Make sure the blade is sharp; a dull blade will tear the paper.
Dealing with common issues
Air bubbles are a common problem. If you notice one after the paper is on the wall, try to gently lift the edge of the wallpaper and re-smooth the area. If the bubble is small and trapped, you can sometimes prick it with a pin and gently press the air out. Wrinkles can occur if the paper is stretched or not smoothed properly. Address them as you go; it’s much harder to fix them once the adhesive has set.
Seams that don’t line up are frustrating. If the pattern match is off, you may need to carefully peel back the strip and reposition it. For stubborn seams that won’t lie flat, a seam roller can sometimes help press them down, but use it gently to avoid damaging the paper. If wallpaper is peeling at the edges, it may not have adhered properly, or there might be too much adhesive. You can try applying a small amount of wallpaper paste to the back of the edge and pressing it back into place.
Finishing touches and clean-up
Once all the wallpaper is hung and trimmed, wipe down the walls with a clean, damp sponge to remove any excess adhesive. Be careful not to saturate the wallpaper. Allow the wallpaper to dry completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions, which can take 24-48 hours. Avoid extreme temperature fluctuations or high humidity during this drying period.
Inspect your work for any missed spots or imperfections. Small touch-ups can often be made with a tiny amount of wallpaper paste applied with a fine brush. Dispose of your used tools and materials properly. Clean your paste table and smoothing tools thoroughly so they are ready for your next project.
Common Wallpaper Hanging Mistakes
| Step/Tool | Typical Mistake | How to Avoid It |
|---|---|---|
| Wall Preparation | Hanging on an uneven or unprimed surface | Ensure walls are clean, dry, smooth, and properly primed. Sand glossy paint. |
| Measuring and Cutting | Not allowing extra for trimming or pattern match | Add at least 4 inches to height; always account for pattern repeat when cutting subsequent panels. |
| Applying Adhesive | Too much or too little paste; uneven application | Use manufacturer’s recommended amount and application method. Aim for a thin, even coat. |
| Hanging First Strip | Not starting plumb or misaligning the edge | Use a level to draw a vertical plumb line and align the wallpaper edge precisely with it. |
| Smoothing Paper | Leaving air bubbles or wrinkles | Work from the center outwards with a smoothing tool, applying gentle, even pressure. Address issues immediately. |
| Butting Seams | Overlapping seams or leaving gaps | Butt edges tightly together without overlapping. Use a seam roller gently if needed, but avoid excessive pressure. |
| Trimming | Using a dull blade or cutting too roughly | Use a sharp utility knife or razor blade and a metal straight edge for clean, precise cuts. |
| Cleaning Up | Leaving excess paste on the wallpaper | Wipe down walls with a damp sponge immediately after hanging each section. |
FAQ
Can I hang wallpaper over painted walls?
Yes, but only if the paint is in good condition, not peeling, and is not a high-gloss finish. For best results, lightly sand glossy paint and ensure the wall is clean and dry. If the paint is dark or has imperfections, consider using a wallpaper liner first.
How do I match patterns on wallpaper seams?
When cutting your second panel, unroll the wallpaper and align the pattern of the new strip precisely with the pattern of the strip already on the wall. Cut the new panel to size only after you have achieved a perfect match. This might mean you use slightly more wallpaper than if there were no pattern.
What happens if I get air bubbles or wrinkles?
Small air bubbles can often be gently lifted from an edge and re-smoothed, or pricked with a fine needle and the air pressed out. Wrinkles should be smoothed out as you hang the paper. If they are stubborn, you might need to peel back the section and reapply, ensuring the paper isn’t stretched.
How long does wallpaper take to dry?
Wallpaper typically takes 24 to 48 hours to dry completely. During this period, avoid extreme temperature changes or high humidity, as this can affect adhesion and cause seams to open or the paper to bubble.
What’s the best way to remove old wallpaper before I start?
Soaking the old wallpaper with a solution of hot water and a fabric softener or commercial wallpaper stripper usually makes it easier to peel off. Score the wallpaper first if it’s vinyl-coated to allow the solution to penetrate. Scrape off any remaining residue with a putty knife.