Hanging prepasted wallpaper is a straightforward DIY project if you understand the process and have the right tools. Unlike unpasted wallpaper, the adhesive is already on the back, activated by water. This guide will walk you through every step, from preparing your walls to trimming the final strip.
Tools and materials you’ll need
Before you start, gather everything you need. Having all your supplies ready will make the process much smoother. You’ll need:
- Prepasted wallpaper (measure your room and add about 10-15% extra for waste)
- Wallpaper seam roller
- Straight edge (metal ruler or T-square)
- Utility knife with extra blades
- Wallpaper smoothing brush or plastic smoother
- Measuring tape
- Pencil
- Level or plumb bob
- Large bucket or tub for water
- Spray bottle with water
- Clean sponges
- Clean cloths or towels
- Step ladder
- Drop cloths or plastic sheeting to protect your floor
- Optional: Wallpaper scoring tool (for removing old paper)
- Optional: Joint compound and putty knife (for repairing wall imperfections)
- Optional: Primer (if walls are unpainted or in poor condition)
Prepare your walls for success
Proper wall preparation is crucial for any wallpaper project. Skipping this step can lead to peeling, bubbling, or an uneven finish. Prepasted wallpaper adheres well to a smooth, clean, and dry surface.
Clean the walls
Wash your walls with a mild detergent and water to remove any dirt, grease, or grime. Pay special attention to areas near kitchens or bathrooms. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and allow the walls to dry completely. If you have any glossy paint, lightly sand it to create a better surface for adhesion. For old wallpaper, use a scoring tool to perforate it, then a wallpaper remover solution. Wash off any paste residue.
Repair imperfections
Fill any holes, cracks, or significant imperfections with joint compound. Let it dry completely, then sand it smooth. Wipe away the dust with a damp cloth.
Prime the walls (if necessary)
If your walls are bare drywall, have been repaired, or have a very dark color you’re covering, applying a coat of wallpaper primer is recommended. Primer seals the surface, ensures even adhesion, and makes future wallpaper removal easier. Allow the primer to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Turn off power
For safety, turn off the electricity to the room at your breaker box. Remove outlet and switch plate covers. You can cover the openings with painter’s tape.
Create a plumb line for the first strip
Hanging the first strip perfectly straight is essential. It will guide all subsequent strips. Even if your corners aren’t perfectly square, a plumb line ensures your wallpaper hangs straight.
Use a level or plumb bob to draw a vertical line on the wall. Start at a corner and measure out about 12 to 18 inches (30-45 cm) from the corner, depending on the width of your wallpaper roll. Mark this distance at the ceiling and the baseboard. Use your level to connect these two marks with a light pencil line. This is your plumb line. Your first strip of wallpaper will align with this line.
Measure and cut your wallpaper
Measure the height of your wall from the ceiling to the baseboard. Add 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm) to this measurement – 2 to 3 inches (5-7.5 cm) for the ceiling and 2 to 3 inches (5-7.5 cm) for the baseboard. This extra length allows for trimming and ensures a good fit.
Unroll your wallpaper and use your measuring tape and pencil to mark the required length. Use a straight edge and a sharp utility knife to cut the strip. It’s better to cut slightly long than too short. Cut several strips at once if you’re working efficiently, but keep them in order.
Consider pattern repeat
If your wallpaper has a pattern, you need to account for the pattern repeat. The pattern repeat is the distance before the pattern starts to repeat. You’ll find this information on the wallpaper’s packaging. Ensure that adjacent strips have the same pattern alignment. This might mean you need to cut longer strips or discard more material from subsequent strips to match the pattern.
Wet and book the wallpaper strip
This is where the prepasted adhesive is activated.
Fill your large bucket or tub with cool to lukewarm water. Some manufacturers recommend adding a small amount of wallpaper sizing to the water, but always check the manufacturer’s instructions. Submerge the wallpaper strip completely in the water. Allow it to soak for the time recommended by the manufacturer, typically 15-30 seconds. Ensure the entire strip is saturated.
Carefully remove the strip from the water, letting excess water drip off. Lay the strip flat, paste-side up, on a clean, dry surface (like a large table or the floor covered with a drop cloth). Fold the top 12 inches (30 cm) of the strip down onto itself, paste-to-paste. Then, fold the bottom 12 inches (30 cm) up to meet the top fold, creating a ‘book’. The paste should now be in contact with itself. This allows the adhesive to soften and the paper to relax, preventing shrinkage or bubbling after hanging. Let the strip ‘book’ for the time specified by the manufacturer, usually 5-10 minutes. Do not let it dry out.
Hang the first strip with precision
Unfold the top half of the ‘booked’ strip. This is the part that will go on the wall first. Align the edge of the wallpaper with your plumb line, leaving about 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm) of excess at the top to trim at the ceiling.
Gently unfold the rest of the strip down the wall. Use your smoothing brush or plastic smoother to press the paper onto the wall, working from the center outwards. This pushes out air bubbles and ensures good contact with the adhesive. Apply smooth, even strokes.
Use your straight edge and utility knife to trim the excess wallpaper at the ceiling and the baseboard. Make a single, clean cut. For corners, wrap the wallpaper slightly around the corner and trim, or cut precisely at the corner line.
Trim excess and wash off paste
After trimming, use a clean, damp sponge to gently wipe away any excess paste that may have squeezed out at the seams or edges. This is important to prevent paste from drying and becoming difficult to remove, which can stain the wallpaper. Rinse your sponge frequently in clean water.
If you have any small air bubbles that you missed, you can try to gently lift the edge of the wallpaper and smooth them out. For stubborn bubbles, you can sometimes prick them with a pin and smooth the air out.
Hang additional strips for a seamless look
Now, repeat the process for the subsequent strips.
Prepare and book the next strip
While the first strip is on the wall, you can prepare and book the second strip. This keeps your workflow efficient.
Hang the second strip
Apply the second strip right next to the first one, butting the edges together tightly. Do not overlap prepasted wallpaper unless the manufacturer specifically instructs you to do so. Align the edge of the second strip with the edge of the first strip, ensuring the pattern matches perfectly. If there’s a pattern repeat, you may need to trim the second strip to achieve this match. Smooth it onto the wall as you did the first strip, working from the center outwards.
Use your straight edge and utility knife to trim the excess at the ceiling and baseboard. Again, carefully butt the edges together. Use your seam roller to gently press the seam flat. Be careful not to press too hard, as this can squeeze out excess paste or damage the wallpaper.
Continue around the room
Continue this process for the rest of the room. Always work from the plumb line you established. When you reach windows or doors, you’ll need to cut the wallpaper to fit around them. Measure carefully, cut notches to help the paper lie flat, and then trim away the excess. You can find specialized guides on how to handle these architectural features.
Dealing with inside and outside corners
For inside corners, you want to wrap the wallpaper about 1/2 to 1 inch (1-2.5 cm) around the corner onto the next wall. This overlap ensures the wallpaper won’t pull away from the corner. On the next strip, measure from the corner and draw a new plumb line, starting the strip about 1/2 inch (1 cm) past the corner. Trim away any excess paper that was wrapped around the corner on the first strip.
For outside corners, wrap the wallpaper around the corner as far as it will smoothly go. Trim the wallpaper so that it lies flat. The next strip will start a short distance from the corner, butting up against the wallpaper that wraps around the corner. Ensure this new strip is plumb.
Final touches and cleanup
Once all the strips are hung and trimmed, do a final check for any missed air bubbles or paste residue. Gently wash down all the walls with a clean, damp sponge to remove any remaining paste. Change your water frequently.
Allow the wallpaper to dry completely, which can take 24-48 hours, depending on humidity and temperature. Avoid turning on any fans or opening windows excessively during this time, as rapid drying can cause shrinkage.
Reinstall your outlet and switch plate covers. Turn the power back on at the breaker box.
If you’re using prepasted wallpaper in a bathroom, ensure it’s rated for high-moisture areas. Our guide on prepasted wallpaper for bathrooms covers what you need to know.
For a decorative touch, consider using wallpaper borders. You can learn more about applying wallpaper borders or explore stick on wallpaper borders.
If you’re working with non-woven wallpaper that requires paste, refer to our guide on non woven wallpaper glue.
For inspiration and beautiful designs, explore the offerings from Rifle Paper Co. wallpaper.