Don’t start hanging until you’ve prepped your walls. You need a smooth, clean, and dry surface. Any imperfections, like bumps or holes, will show through the wallpaper, especially with lighter patterns. Start by removing any old wallpaper or paint. If there’s existing wallpaper, use a scoring tool to create small holes, then apply a wallpaper removal solution. Scrape off the loosened paper with a putty knife or wallpaper scraper.
For painted walls, clean them thoroughly with a TSP (trisodium phosphate) substitute or a similar cleaner to remove grease and grime. Rinse well. Fill any nail holes or cracks with spackling paste or joint compound. Let it dry completely, then sand it smooth. A smooth, consistent surface is crucial, especially for thinner or patterned papers. If you’re covering a dark or heavily patterned wall with a light-colored wallpaper, consider applying a coat of wallpaper primer. This not only seals the surface but also provides a uniform base color, preventing the old pattern from showing through. Ensure the primer is compatible with your chosen wallpaper type.
Prep the wall for a flawless finish
Achieving a professional-looking wallpaper installation hinges entirely on proper wall preparation. This isn’t a step to rush. Start by removing all outlet and switch plate covers. Also, remove any nails, screws, or hardware from the walls. If you have textured walls, like popcorn ceilings that extend down the walls, or heavily textured drywall, you’ll need to smooth them out. For minor imperfections, a good sanding after filling is sufficient. For more significant texture, you might need to skim coat the walls with joint compound, sand smooth, and prime. Ensure all dust from sanding is removed with a damp cloth or a tack cloth before priming or hanging.
Cleaning is paramount. Walls collect dust, grease, and even smoke residue over time. Use a mild detergent and water, or a TSP substitute, to wash down the walls. Pay extra attention to areas near kitchens and bathrooms, where grease and moisture are more prevalent. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and allow the walls to dry completely. If you’re applying wallpaper over a glossy paint finish, lightly sand the surface to create a ‘key’ for the adhesive to grip. Again, wipe away all dust.
Consider using a wallpaper primer. It serves multiple purposes: it seals porous surfaces (like new drywall or repaired areas), ensures even adhesive absorption, makes future wallpaper removal easier, and can provide a barrier against stains or dark colors from showing through. Choose a primer specifically designed for wallpaper applications. It should be a neutral color, usually white or gray, and dry to a matte finish.
Finally, create a plumb line. This is a vertical reference line that ensures your first strip of wallpaper goes on perfectly straight. Use a level (a 4-foot level is ideal) and a pencil to draw a faint vertical line from the ceiling to the floor in a corner or at the starting point of your installation. This line is your guide; your first strip should align precisely with it. If you’re hanging wallpaper in a corner, ensure the corner itself is as close to plumb as possible before drawing your line.
Measure & activate the paper correctly
Once your walls are prepped, it’s time to measure and cut your wallpaper. Always measure the height of your wall from the ceiling to the baseboard in several places, as walls are rarely perfectly level. Add at least 4 to 6 inches to this measurement (2-3 inches extra at the top and 2-3 inches at the bottom) to allow for trimming and fitting into corners or around trim. This extra length provides a buffer for minor errors and ensures a clean edge once trimmed.
When cutting your strips, pay attention to the pattern repeat. The pattern repeat is the vertical distance on the roll before the pattern starts to duplicate. If the repeat is large, you’ll need to waste more paper to match the pattern between strips. Carefully unroll the wallpaper and mark your cutting lines using a long, straight edge and a pencil. Cut the strips using a sharp utility knife or a specialized wallpaper scoring tool and a straight edge. Ensure your cuts are clean and straight.
For prepasted wallpaper: You’ll need a clean water tray large enough to submerge the strip. Many manufacturers recommend booking the paper. This involves folding the pasted side onto itself, sticky side to sticky side, without creasing, and letting it rest for the time specified by the manufacturer (usually 5-10 minutes). This allows the adhesive to activate fully and the paper to relax, preventing bubbles and making it easier to handle. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions precisely regarding water temperature and soaking time.
For unpasted wallpaper: You’ll need wallpaper adhesive and a paste brush or roller. Apply a thin, even coat of adhesive to the back of the wallpaper strip, extending slightly beyond the edges. Again, book the paper as described above, unless the manufacturer specifically advises against it. Ensure full coverage of adhesive, paying attention to the edges, as they are prone to drying out or peeling.
For self-adhesive wallpaper (peel and stick): No water or paste is needed. You simply peel off the backing and apply it directly to the wall. However, proper measurement and cutting are still crucial. Some self-adhesive wallpapers allow for repositioning within a short timeframe, which can be forgiving for DIYers. Always check the manufacturer’s instructions for specific activation or application requirements.
Hanging unpasted wallpaper requires patience
Hanging unpasted wallpaper is the most traditional method. First, apply the adhesive evenly to the back of the wallpaper strip, ensuring full coverage, especially at the edges. Then, ‘book’ the paper by folding the pasted sides together for the manufacturer-recommended resting period. This allows the paste to soften the paper fibers, making it pliable and easier to manipulate on the wall.
When you’re ready to hang, unfold one half of the booked strip. Align the edge of the strip with your plumb line, ensuring the top edge extends a few inches above the ceiling line. Gently press the strip against the wall, working from the center outwards to smooth out any air bubbles. Use a wallpaper smoothing brush or a plastic smoother tool to push air towards the edges. Once the top half is in place, unfold the bottom half and align it carefully, smoothing it down towards the baseboard.
Trim the excess paper at the ceiling and baseboard using a sharp utility knife and a straight edge. Overlap the trim slightly and cut through both layers of paper for a clean break. For inside corners, gently ease the paper into the corner, leaving a slight overlap (about 1/4 inch) onto the adjacent wall. Cut a relief slit at the top and bottom. For outside corners, wrap the paper around the corner by about 1/2 inch onto the adjacent wall, then cut a relief slit from the top and bottom that extends to the corner edge. This prevents the paper from pulling away in the corner.
Hanging prepasted wallpaper is faster but tricky
Prepasted wallpaper comes with adhesive already applied to the back. The process involves submerging the strip in water for a specific time to activate the adhesive, followed by booking the paper. The booking time is crucial – too short and the adhesive won’t activate properly; too long and the paper can become oversaturated and tear easily.
After activating and booking, hang the strip similarly to unpasted paper. Align the top edge with your plumb line and smooth out air bubbles from the center towards the edges. The advantage of prepasted is that you don’t have to deal with messy paste application. However, the activation process requires careful timing and attention to water temperature. If the water is too cold, the paste may not activate; too hot, and it can damage the paper or prematurely activate the adhesive.
Trimming excess paper at the ceiling and baseboard is done the same way as with unpasted wallpaper, using a sharp knife and a straight edge. Be extra careful when trimming with prepasted paper, as over-wetting can make it weaker and more prone to tearing. Always refer to the manufacturer’s specific instructions, as different brands and types of prepasted wallpaper may have slightly different activation and booking requirements.
Hang your first strip with precision
This is arguably the most critical step, as it sets the tone for the entire installation. Using your plumb line as a guide, carefully position the first strip of wallpaper. If using unpasted or prepasted paper, unfold the top half first. Align the edge of the paper precisely with the plumb line, ensuring it’s straight from top to bottom. Gently press the paper onto the wall, starting from the center and smoothing outwards with a wallpaper brush or smoother. Work out any air bubbles towards the edges.
Once the top half is smoothly adhered, unfold the bottom half. Align it carefully with the plumb line and continue smoothing. If you’re working with a pattern, ensure the pattern aligns correctly from the ceiling down. Don’t stretch the paper, as this can cause it to pull away later or distort the pattern. Apply gentle, firm pressure.
After the strip is smoothed and adhered, use a sharp utility knife and a straight edge to trim the excess paper at the ceiling and baseboard. For a clean cut, slightly overlap the knife onto the trim or ceiling edge. Make a single, continuous cut. If you need to make relief cuts at the top or bottom near a corner, make them small and precise. For particularly intricate areas or around obstacles, a smaller, more flexible smoothing tool can be helpful.
Proceed to the second strip and pattern matching
The second strip is where pattern matching becomes crucial. For striped wallpaper, like our purple striped wallpaper, ensure the stripes align perfectly with the first strip. For patterned wallpaper, align the design elements. When hanging the second strip, position it so that its edge butts up tightly against the edge of the first strip, without overlapping (unless specifically designed for overlapping).
Apply the second strip using the same smoothing technique, working from the center outwards to eliminate air bubbles. Pay close attention to the pattern match. If the pattern doesn’t align perfectly, you may need to slightly adjust the position of the second strip before the adhesive sets. Sometimes, you can carefully trim a tiny sliver from the edge of the first strip if it helps the second strip’s pattern align better, but this is a delicate operation.
Use a seam roller sparingly on vinyl or other durable wallpapers to gently press down the seams for a more finished look. However, be cautious with delicate papers like grasscloth or silk, as a seam roller can damage them. Always test on a scrap piece first or consult the wallpaper manufacturer’s guidelines.
Continue this process for each subsequent strip, always focusing on maintaining a straight hang and a perfect pattern match. In corners, ensure the paper is smoothed firmly into the corner. For inside corners, it’s common practice to allow the wallpaper to wrap slightly onto the adjacent wall (about 1/4 to 1/2 inch) and then make a relief cut at the top and bottom. For outside corners, wrap the paper around the corner by at least 1/2 inch and make relief cuts from the top and bottom that extend to the corner edge. This technique helps prevent the paper from pulling away.
Types of wallpaper and how to install them
Vinyl wallpaper
Vinyl wallpaper is durable, washable, and often comes with a paper or fabric backing. It’s excellent for high-traffic areas, kitchens, and bathrooms due to its resistance to moisture and stains. Installation is similar to standard unpasted or prepasted paper, but its durability means you can often use slightly more pressure when smoothing. Ensure you use a heavy-duty adhesive if the wallpaper is particularly thick or textured. When trimming, a sharp blade is essential, as vinyl can be tough to cut cleanly.
Non-woven wallpaper
Non-woven wallpaper is made from a blend of textile fibers and synthetic materials. It’s known for being breathable, durable, and often strippable (easy to remove). Many non-woven wallpapers are ‘paste the wall’ types, meaning you apply the adhesive directly to the wall rather than the paper. This can speed up the installation process. If it’s prepasted, follow those specific instructions. If unpasted, use a good quality adhesive suitable for non-woven materials.
Self-adhesive wallpaper
Also known as peel-and-stick wallpaper, this type is a favorite for renters or those who like frequent decor changes. It requires no paste or water; you simply peel off the backing and apply. Measure carefully, as repositioning can sometimes be tricky once it’s firmly adhered. Smooth out air bubbles as you go. For larger areas, it’s often easier to work with a helper to prevent the paper from sticking to itself.
Prepasted wallpaper
As discussed, this type requires activation with water. The key is the correct soaking and booking time. It’s generally easier than unpasted because you avoid the mess of paste application, but improper activation can lead to adhesion issues.
Common mistakes to avoid
One of the biggest mistakes is inadequate wall preparation. Skipping sanding, cleaning, or priming can lead to bubbles, peeling, and a generally unprofessional finish. Another common error is not letting prepasted or pasted paper ‘book’ for long enough, resulting in poor adhesion or shrinkage. Using a dull blade for trimming will create ragged edges that are very noticeable.
Pattern matching is another pitfall. If you’re installing patterned wallpaper, take the time to ensure the pattern aligns perfectly between strips. Misaligned patterns can make a room look messy and unfinished. Overlapping strips when they should be butted together, or vice-versa, is also a frequent mistake. Always check if your wallpaper is designed to overlap or butt-join.
Rushing the process is a recipe for disaster. Wallpaper installation requires patience and attention to detail. Rushing can lead to crooked strips, poor pattern matches, and accidental tears. Lastly, not following the manufacturer’s instructions is a gamble. Different wallpapers have unique requirements for adhesive, booking times, and handling.
When to call a professional
While wallpaper installation can be a rewarding DIY project, there are times when hiring a professional is the smartest choice. If you have very intricate walls with lots of angles, curves, or architectural details, a professional will have the experience and tools to handle it seamlessly. For large-scale projects, such as covering an entire house or a very large room, the time investment for a DIYer can be substantial, and professional installers can often complete the job much faster and more efficiently.
If you’ve attempted wallpapering before and had a negative experience, or if you’re simply not confident in your abilities, it’s wise to seek expert help. A poorly installed wallpaper can be more expensive to fix than hiring a professional from the start. You can find qualified professionals by checking reviews, asking for recommendations, or using services that vet installers. Learn more about how to vet wallpaper installation companies before you book.
Wallpaper installation videos can help
Sometimes, reading instructions isn’t enough. Watching a visual demonstration can clarify tricky steps, especially for first-time installers. Many wallpaper manufacturers provide installation videos on their websites, showcasing their specific products. Online platforms like YouTube also host a vast library of wallpaper installation tutorials covering various techniques and wallpaper types. These videos can be invaluable for understanding how to handle different materials, match patterns, and smooth out bubbles effectively. You can also find videos specific to certain styles, such as installing a heron wallpaper mural or pink paneling wallpaper.