how to take laminate flooring up
To take up laminate flooring, you’ll need a pry bar, hammer, utility knife, and possibly a tapping block and pull bar. Start by removing baseboards, then carefully pry up the first row of planks. Continue working row by row, detaching the locking mechanisms and lifting the planks.
Removing laminate flooring is a common DIY task, often necessary for renovations or replacing damaged sections. Unlike solid hardwood or tile, laminate is typically a floating floor, meaning it’s not glued or nailed down, which simplifies its removal. The key is to work systematically and avoid forcing the planks, which can damage them or the subfloor.
Before you begin, gather your tools. You’ll need a pry bar (a flat bar or crowbar works well), a hammer, a utility knife, and safety gear like gloves and safety glasses. Depending on your laminate’s locking system, you might also benefit from a tapping block and a pull bar. If the laminate is glued down, the process will be more involved, often requiring scraping and potentially a floor scraper or even a power tool like a floor stripper.
Prepare the area before removing laminate
Clear the room of all furniture, rugs, and any other obstructions. This will give you ample space to work. If there are any floor vents, remove their covers. You might also want to take photos of the installation before you start, especially if you plan to reuse the flooring elsewhere. This can serve as a reference for how the planks were laid out and interlocked.
Next, you’ll need to remove the baseboards or quarter-round molding. These are usually nailed to the wall, not the flooring. Use your pry bar and hammer to gently pry them away from the wall. Work slowly to avoid damaging the drywall. If you plan to reuse the baseboards, place a thin piece of wood or a putty knife between the pry bar and the wall to act as a buffer. Store the baseboards carefully.
Cutting the laminate planks for easier removal
Laminate flooring often has a tongue-and-groove locking system. To make removal easier, especially if the planks are tightly interlocked or if the room is large, you can cut the planks into shorter sections. Use your utility knife to score a line across the planks in several places, about 3-4 feet from the starting wall. Then, use your pry bar to snap the planks along these scored lines.
This is particularly helpful for the first few rows. For subsequent rows, you can usually detach them by simply lifting and separating the locking mechanism. If the planks are exceptionally difficult to separate, you might need to use the utility knife to cut along the seam where two planks meet, effectively breaking the lock. Be careful not to cut into the subfloor.
How to detach and remove the first row of laminate planks
Start at one end of the room, typically along the longest wall where the flooring was installed first. Insert the pry bar into the gap between the first plank and the wall. You may need to use a hammer to gently tap the pry bar to help it slide under the plank. Gently lift the plank away from the wall, focusing on disengaging the locking mechanism on its long edge.
Once the first plank is loosened, work your way along the row. For each subsequent plank, you’ll need to detach it from the plank next to it and the plank behind it. If your laminate has a click-lock system, you’ll often lift the plank at an angle to release the tongue from the groove. A pull bar can be very useful here, allowing you to hook onto the end of the plank and pull it away from the previous row.
Continuing the removal process row by row
After removing the first row, move on to the second. The second row’s planks will likely be interlocked with the first row’s remaining pieces (if any) and with each other. You’ll typically need to lift the plank at an angle to release its tongue from the groove of the plank in the previous row. Then, you can detach it from the plank next to it.
Continue this process for each subsequent row. As you work, stack the removed planks neatly to one side. This keeps your workspace clear and makes it easier to transport the flooring if you plan to reuse it. Be mindful of the subfloor beneath. If it’s concrete, check for any moisture issues. If it’s wood, ensure there’s no damage that needs repair before installing new flooring.
Dealing with stubborn laminate planks
Sometimes, the locking mechanism can be very tight, or planks might be damaged, making removal difficult. If a plank is stuck, try using a tapping block and hammer on the short end of the plank to gently loosen the connection with the adjacent plank. Work from the end of the plank towards the middle.
If a plank is broken or severely damaged, you might need to cut it into smaller pieces using a circular saw or a jigsaw. Always wear a dust mask and safety glasses when cutting laminate, as it produces fine particulate matter. Cut carefully to avoid damaging the subfloor or adjacent planks. For glued-down laminate, you’ll likely need to use a floor scraper or even a heat gun to soften the adhesive before prying.
Final steps after laminate removal
Once all the laminate planks are removed, inspect the subfloor. Clean up any debris, dust, or adhesive residue. If you find any damage to the subfloor, such as cracks, gouges, or unevenness, you’ll need to repair it before installing new flooring. Fill cracks and gouges with a suitable patching compound and sand any high spots smooth.
Sweep or vacuum the subfloor thoroughly. If you’re installing new flooring, ensure the subfloor meets the manufacturer’s requirements for flatness and cleanliness. You may need to lay down a new underlayment or moisture barrier depending on the type of flooring you plan to install next.
Common Mistakes When Removing Laminate Flooring
| Step/Tool | Typical Mistake | How to Avoid It |
|---|---|---|
| Pry Bar Use | Prying too aggressively or at the wrong angle, causing damage to the plank or subfloor. | Use a buffer (thin wood or putty knife) between the pry bar and the wall/subfloor. Pry gently and leverage the locking mechanism rather than brute force. |
| Utility Knife | Cutting too deep and damaging the subfloor, or not scoring deeply enough for a clean break. | Score multiple times with light pressure. For breaking planks, score across the width and then use a pry bar to snap. If cutting for removal, be aware of subfloor depth. |
| Baseboard Removal | Nailing the baseboards to the laminate flooring, making them difficult to remove without damage. | Always verify baseboards are nailed to the wall studs. Pry them away from the wall slowly and use a buffer to protect the wall surface. |
| Working in Sections | Trying to remove large sections at once, leading to breakage and frustration. | Work row by row, and if necessary, cut planks into smaller, manageable sections (3-4 feet) for easier handling and removal. |
FAQ
Can I reuse laminate flooring after removing it?
Yes, in many cases, laminate flooring can be reused. However, it depends on the type of locking system and whether the planks were damaged during removal. Click-lock systems are generally more reusable than older types. Inspect each plank for chipped edges or damaged locking mechanisms before attempting to reinstall.
How long does it take to remove laminate flooring?
The time it takes can vary significantly based on the room size, the type of laminate, and your experience. For an average-sized room (e.g., 12×12 feet), it can take anywhere from 2 to 6 hours for an experienced DIYer. A larger or more complex room, or if the laminate is glued down, could take considerably longer.
What should I do with the old laminate flooring?
If the flooring is in good condition and you plan to reuse it, store it flat in a dry place. If it’s damaged or you don’t plan to reuse it, check with your local waste disposal services for options. Some areas have recycling programs for construction debris, or you may need to dispose of it as regular household waste.
Do I need to remove the underlayment after taking up laminate?
Yes, it’s generally recommended to remove the old underlayment. The condition and type of underlayment will dictate its reusability. You’ll likely need to install a new underlayment appropriate for your new flooring type anyway, so removing the old one ensures a clean, level surface.
