Prepasted wallpaper arrives with the adhesive already on the back, activated by water. This makes it a popular choice for DIYers. You’ll need a few key tools before you start: a straight edge or T-square, a sharp utility knife or razor blade, a smoothing tool or plastic smoother, a seam roller, a water tray or tub, a sponge, a drop cloth, and a stepladder.
Preparing your walls for prepasted wallpaper
Proper wall preparation is crucial for any wallpaper job, and prepasted is no exception. Start by cleaning your walls thoroughly. Remove any dirt, grease, or old adhesive residue. If you’re wallpapering over a glossy paint finish, lightly sand it to create a surface the wallpaper can adhere to. Fill any holes or cracks with spackle and sand smooth once dry. For a seamless finish, especially with lighter colored wallpapers, consider priming your walls with a wallpaper primer. This also helps in future removal.
Check your walls for smoothness. Any imperfections will be more noticeable once the wallpaper is applied. Ensure there are no loose pieces of drywall or old paint peeling. If you have textured walls, prepasted wallpaper may not adhere well without special primers or treatments. In such cases, consider smoothing the walls first or opting for a different wallpaper type.
Measuring and cutting your wallpaper
Measure the height of your wall from the ceiling to the baseboard. Add at least 4 inches to this measurement for trimming at both the top and bottom. This extra length allows for adjustments and ensures you have enough to work with, especially on uneven ceilings or floors. If your pattern requires matching, lay out multiple strips and plan your cuts to ensure the pattern flows correctly from one strip to the next. For patterned wallpaper, you might need to cut longer strips than for solid colors to achieve a good pattern repeat.
When cutting, use a sharp blade. A dull blade can tear the wallpaper, creating a ragged edge that’s difficult to hide. Always cut on a flat, clean surface. If you’re using a T-square or straight edge, ensure it’s positioned accurately. For a large room, cut several strips at once, numbering them lightly with a pencil on the unpasted side to keep them in order.
Activating the adhesive and hanging the first strip
Fill your water tray or tub with cool water. Do not use hot water, as it can make the adhesive too sticky and difficult to work with. Submerge one strip of wallpaper, unpasted side down, into the water. Let it soak for the time recommended by the manufacturer, usually 10-30 seconds. You’ll see the adhesive begin to activate as the paper softens.
Carefully lift the strip out of the water, letting excess water drip off. Fold the dampened strip onto itself, paste-to-paste, without creasing it. Let it ‘book’ or ‘relax’ for the time specified by the manufacturer, often 5-10 minutes. This allows the adhesive to fully activate and the paper to expand evenly, preventing bubbles and wrinkles.
The first strip is the most critical. Start in a corner or at a prominent focal point. Unfold the top half of the booked strip, align it with the ceiling, and let it drop down. Use your smoothing tool to gently press it against the wall, working from the center outwards to push out air bubbles and excess water. Overlap the edge of the strip slightly onto the adjacent wall or into the corner. Don’t try to position it perfectly at this stage; you have a little wiggle room.
Applying subsequent strips and matching patterns
Unfold the bottom half of the first strip and smooth it down to the baseboard. Trim the excess paper at the ceiling and baseboard using your utility knife and straight edge. For a clean cut, press the knife firmly against the wall and draw it along the edge in one smooth motion. Be sure to change your blade frequently for the sharpest cut.
For the next strip, align its edge precisely with the edge of the first strip. Butt the edges together – do not overlap them unless the wallpaper specifically calls for it. Use your smoothing tool to press the strip onto the wall, working from the center out. Pay close attention to pattern matching. If your wallpaper has a pattern, ensure the design on the new strip aligns perfectly with the design on the previous strip before smoothing it down.
After smoothing each strip, use a damp sponge to wipe away any excess paste that may have seeped out at the seams. This is important to prevent the paste from drying and staining the wallpaper. Use a seam roller to gently press down the seams once the wallpaper is smoothed and the paste is slightly tacky. This creates a professional, finished look and helps prevent the seams from lifting over time. For Yellowstone wallpaper designs or similar scenic prints, precise pattern matching is paramount.
Dealing with obstacles and finishing touches
Obstacles like electrical outlets, switches, and windows require careful handling. For outlets and switches, turn off the power at the breaker first. Apply the wallpaper over the opening, smooth it down, and then gently pierce the center of the opening with your knife. Trim outwards from the center in a star pattern, then smooth the excess paper around the edges of the outlet or switch plate. Reinstall the plate once done.
For windows and doors, hang the wallpaper over the frame. Make a diagonal cut from the edge of the frame towards the center of the wallpapered area. Smooth the paper down the sides of the frame. Trim any excess carefully. You may need to make relief cuts to get the paper to lie flat around curved frames.
When you reach a corner, decide whether to wrap the wallpaper around or cut it. For inside corners, often you can wrap the paper around the corner by about 1/2 inch, then make a relief cut vertically at the top of the corner to help it lie flat. For outside corners, wrap the paper around and make a relief cut if needed to prevent tearing. Always ensure subsequent strips in the new direction are plumb (perfectly vertical).
If you are applying stick on wallpaper borders or applying wallpaper borders for a polished look, the process is similar but typically involves less water activation and more direct application. They are applied after the main wallpaper is in place.
Common mistakes to avoid when applying prepasted wallpaper
One of the most common mistakes is insufficient wall preparation. Skimping on cleaning or not sanding glossy paint will lead to poor adhesion and potential peeling. Another mistake is not letting the wallpaper ‘book’ properly. Rushing this step means the adhesive won’t fully activate, leading to dry seams and bubbles.
Using a dull blade for trimming is a costly error. It creates rough edges that are impossible to hide and can ruin the aesthetic. Over-wetting the wallpaper can also be problematic; it can weaken the paper and make it tear easily. Follow the manufacturer’s soaking times precisely. For intricate patterns, like those found in Rifle Paper Co. wallpaper or flowers on wallpaper prints, mismatched patterns are a visual disaster. Take your time to align them correctly.
Not checking if your walls are plumb can lead to strips that look crooked, even if they are hung straight relative to each other. Use a level to ensure your first strip is perfectly vertical. Finally, failing to clean up excess paste immediately can result in permanent stains, especially on delicate papers.